The Kolhapuri chappal, a true icon of Indian fashion, holds a rich history and a significant place in our daily lives. Originating from western India and deriving its name from the city of Kolhapur, this durable leather sandal has journeyed through 800 years of eminence - from regal palaces and agricultural terrains to international catwalks and trendy Instagram wardrobes. Let's delve into the fascinating evolution of Kolhapuris, the contemporary transformations unfolding, and the enduring importance of this craft.
Where it began
In a tongue-in-cheek manner, let's explore the fascinating history behind the renowned Kolhapuris! Legend has it that these iconic sandals can trace their roots back to the bustling leatherworking guilds of the Deccan region in the 12th–13th centuries. Picture this: heavy-duty Kolhapuris with rugged soles for the hardworking folks in the fields, paired with lighter, more embellished designs fit for the noble class. Oh, and let's not forget about the quirky local variants named after their crafty origins—Paytaan, Kapshi, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, Pukri—showcasing the strong bond between community and cobbling craftsmanship. How fancy footwork, right?
Originating from Kolhapur, Maharashtra, Kolhapuri chappals date back to the 13th century under King Bijjala and his minister Basavanna’s rule. Made entirely by hand using vegetable-tanned leather, these chappals are known for their flat sole, durability, comfort, and intricate designs. These t-strap open-heel sandals have been crafted by talented Indian artisans for over a century.
What makes a Kolhapuri: a Kolhapuri
The design of this footwear effortlessly narrates its tale with a quick glance: a flat leather base in a classic tan or brown hue, adorned with a toe ring known as "bichi," and featuring a unique T-strap or intricately braided upper. These components smartly blend together to provide adequate ventilation for scorching climates while offering a snug and comfortable fit for those endless days spent walking. It's the perfect fusion of functionality and fashion that clarifies why this style has remained timeless and enduring.
The 20th-century nudge
In the early 20th century, families and traders were the unsung heroes who revolutionized the fashion industry by standardizing silhouettes and expanding their distribution beyond local markets. You might come across terms like "Kanwali/ear-flap" models and tales of Kolhapur to Mumbai retail expeditions in the oral and brand histories of that era. While not all accounts may align perfectly, these stories do highlight a crucial transformation: the evolution of a humble cottage craft into a service for the stylish urban, national consumer.
Global spotlight (and a debate)
In the amusing turn of events of mid-2025, Prada struts its stuff by parading Kolhapuri-like sandals on the SS26 menswear runway. This move didn't just make fashion waves but triggered a full-blown cultural-appropriation saga, catapulting Kolhapuris into the international limelight. Facing backlash for failing to credit the source, Prada eventually tipped its hat to Indian influence and hinted at a willingness to involve local artisans. While the incident did lead to a surge in interest and sales for Indian brands, it also reignited discussions on fair attribution and collaboration. However, there's a word of caution in the air: safeguarding Geographical Indication rights proves to be a smoother sail within India compared to beyond its borders, leaving traditional crafts susceptible to uncredited "inspiration.”
Contemporary changes: comfort, color, conscience
Comfort engineering has come a long way in today's footwear industry. This innovation includes features like padded footbeds, softer leathers, rubberized outsoles, and lighter construction to ensure comfort for all-day, all-surface use. While some manufacturers maintain the hand-braided uppers, they are constantly improving the base for better shock absorption. Never underestimate the power of comfortable shoes that can keep up with your busy lifestyle!
Vegan and cruelty-free alternatives are becoming increasingly popular in the market. Faux or "vegan" leather options are expanding, making it easier for those who prefer not to use real leather to find suitable products. These options also include water-friendly variants, catering to environmentally-conscious consumers. Whether you're looking for vegan Kolhapuris, cushioned wedges, or flats, you can now find them in a variety of boutique and mainstream stores.
Palette and profile: Beyond tan, contemporary lines play with metallics, sorbet pastels, embroidery, and platform or wedge bases—styling that moves easily from casuals to festive wear without losing the toe-ring/T-strap DNA.
Check out the new collection of Kolhapuris that are perfect for your day-to-day occasions, offering a perfect blend with your minimalist outfits to even heavily designed ones. Available only at howimetmysole.com.
Conclusion
Strip away the trend cycles and the Kolhapuri remains what it’s always been: a climate-smart, repair-friendly, hand-stitched sandal with elegant economy. Its latest chapter—comfort upgrades, vegan options, and a seat at the global fashion table—doesn’t replace tradition; it extends it. The craft survives by adapting, and every thoughtful purchase helps that story continue.
References:
https://somethingcurated.com/2025/07/05/a-history-of-the-kolhapuri-chappal/
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